Sep.13th, 2020
Dazaifu Tenmangū and oxen
There are many legends related to Sugawara no Michizane and oxen. For example, the year Sugawara no Michizane was born was a year of the ox in the Oriental Zodiac, and the day he died was the day of the ox. Also, an ox once protected Michizane from an assassin, and where the funeral oxcart stopped became his grave. Although some of these legends are dramatized by posterity, Sugawara no Michizane has many relations with oxen, therefore oxen are called
"Goshingyū" and regarded as divine messenger of Michizane, the shrine's deity.
There are 11 statues of oxen in the shrine. Some of these are bronze and some are stone, but every statue is an ox lying down, coming from the story that where the ox pulling the oxcart lied down became the grave of Michizane.
The statues of Goshingyūs are also called "Nade-ushi (meaning: padding ox)", and is told padding the same part on the ox as the part you are injured or ill and you will be cured. Some people also believe that padding the ox's head will make you smarter.
Uso and Usogae ritual
The Usogae is a ritual performed from 6pm on January 7th, in which participants exchange wooden carvings of an Uso with each other, to pray for the happiness of the new year.
This ritual performed in many shrines dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane originated at Dazaifu Tenmangū.
In the Usogae, participants exchange a Ki-uso, wooden carvings of an Uso, with each other repeatedly in the dark shouting "Kaemasho, kaemasho" until the signal to stop. Since the pronunciation of Uso is the same as "Lies (uso, 嘘)", It is said that through this ritual, you can exchang the lies you unconsciously told with the Tenjin's sincerity, and also, change the bad fortune in the past to a lie and exchange it with good fortune in the new year.
Anyone can recieve a Ki-uso and participate in the Usogae. After the ritual, the Ki-uso should be kept in each one's home and wish for good fortune. And also, there are a few special Ki-usos mixed within the Ki-usos by the priest, and the lucky ones who got that Ki-uso can recieve a golden Ki-uso and more fortune.
A Usos are Eurasian Bullfinch, a small bird slightly larger than sparrows. Male birds have a red marking around the cheek and the throat. Like the name "Uso" is derived from an archaic word meaning "whistle", the cries of Usos are like whistles.
Why Usos were related to Sugawara no Michizane is said to be because Usos protected Michizane when he was attacked by bees, and also, the charactor "鷽 (Uso)" is similar to "学" that means learning.
Also, there is the Usodori-mikuji, resembling a Ki-uso used in the Uso-gae with a written fortune inside, that is available any day. And many shops around Dazaifu Tenmangū sell various kinds of Ki-usos as souvenirs.
Onisube ritual
The Onisube is a ritual performed on January 7th, the same day as Uso-gae, every year. It is said that the ritual was started in 986 by Sugawara no Michizane's great-grandchild Sugawara no Sukemasa to expel evil spirits and bring good luck.
300 parishners are devided into three groups, the Oni-gakaris, the Oni-kegos who protect the Oni and the Ibushites who exterminates the Oni, and plays a scene of Oni-taiji. Each group walks around the shrine, and gathers at the Onisube-dō, at the east side of the shrine, by 9 in the night.
After the pine leaves and straw piled up beside the Onisube-dō are lit up by the sacred fire, the Ibushites send the smoke into the Onisube-dō using a large fan to drive out the Oni. Then the Oni-kegos smash the wall of the Onisube-dō to discharge smoke and protect the Oni. Once all the walls of the Onisube-dō are destroyed, the Oni, tied up with a straw rope 48 times and surrounded by the Oni-gakaris, is carried in a circle 7 and a half times inside the Onisube-dō and 3 and a half times outside. Every time the Oni is carried around, the priest and parish representative throws beans at the Oni and hit the Oni with a cain. After the Oni is exterminated, the ritual ends.
The remains of the wall of Onisube-dō are considered as a charm against fire, and is said it is good to take it home and enshrine it in the entrance of the house.
The legend of Tobiume
The Tobiume is a 1000 year old plum tree, on the right of the Honden. It is said that it was originally at the Enoki shrine where Sugawara no Michizane lived after he was relegated to Dazaifu and was moved here when Dazaifu Tenmangū was established.
The Tobiume has a legend that goes as follows.
When Michizane was forced to leave Kyoto, he said farewell to the plum tree, cherry tree and the pine tree at his residence that he especially admired. He talked to the plum tree composing a poem.
東風吹かば 匂ひをこせよ 梅の花 あるじなしとて 春な忘れそ
If the spring wind blows, let your scent on the wind and send it to Dazaifu, plum tree.
Even though your master isn't here, you should not forget spring.
The cherry tree, knowing its master is going far away, it died with grief. The pine tree and plum tree uprooted itself and flew after their master. The pine tree used up all it's strength and descended at Yatabe county in Settsu Province, but the plum tree flew to Dazaifu and descended here.
There are more than 6000 plum trees in the shrine, but it is said that the Tobiume flowers the first every year.
Fortune slips at Dazaifu Tenmangū
The color of Fortune slip in Dazaifu Tenmangū is changed each season, such as pink of plum blossoms and yellow of rice plants, so people could feel the change of the seasons.
The fortune slips at Dazaifu Tenmangū have 5 fortunes, Dai-kichi, Kichi, Chū-kichi, Shō-kichi and Sue-kichi
but has no Kyōs meaning "bad luck". This is because many students preparing for their entrance exams visit the shrine, and so they wouldn't pull bad luck and be get depressed.
Umegae-mochi
Umegae-mochis are a grilled azuki bean cake sold in souvenir shops and teahouses in and around the Dazaifu Tenmangū. Umegaemochis are sold to eat on the spot, and also boxed for souvenirs. It is stamped with the pattern of a plum blossom, but is not a mochi with a flavor of plums.
It is unknown which shop is the originator, but 35 shops serve Umegae-mochi.
One theory goes as, a old woman, who could not bear to see the miserable living of Sugawara no Michizane, after he was relegated and confined in Dazaifu, gave him a mochi through the latticework of the window, stabbed on a branch of a plum tree, and this became Umegaemochi.
In another theory, a old woman selling mochis in front of Anraku temple, where Dazaifu Tenmangū is now, gave Michizane a mochi to encourage him, and it became his favourite. After his death the old women offered the mochi together witha branch of a plum tree, and this became Umegaemochi.
Since Sugawara no Michizane's birthday is the 25th of June, and he died on the 25th of March, the 25th of each month is "The day of Tenjin" and green Umegae-mochis including mugwort are served.
Also, the purple Umegae-mochis made of ancient rice, that was sold in the 10th anniversary of Kyushu National Museum, are sold on the 17th of each month.
O-Ishi Tunnel and O-Ishi chaya
The Hōmangū-sanpai Tunnel, at the far most end of Dazaifu Tenmangū, is a small brick tunnel known as the "O-Ishi Tunnel".
This tunnel was built by Takichi Asō, known as a coal tycoon, in 1928, as a shortcut to the Hōmangū Kamado shrine.
However, as a rumor, Takichi Asō built the tunnel for "O-Ishi-san" who was the owner of a teahouse in the shrine so she can easily come to her teahouse from her house near Kamado shrine, spread widely, people became to call the tunnel "O-Ishi Tunnel".
Ishi Ezaki, who was commonly known as "O-Ishi-shan" at the time, was a beautiful lady, said to be counted as one of the three most beautiful girls in Chikuzen. Many celebrities visited her teahouse to see her, such as former prime ministers Tsuyoshi Inukai and Eisaku Sato, Prince Takamatsu, Yōsuke Matsuoka and Yoshī Isamu.
The teahouse that was ran by "O-Ishi-san" is the O-Ishi-chaya. The teahouse was renamed by "O-Ishi-shan" after her name when she succeeded it from her mother.
Udon, tea or Umegae-mochi are served at the teahouse that still retains the atmosphere of the time.
Near the O-Ishi-chaya, there is a stone monument engraved with a waka composed by Isamu Yoshī, a poet, when he visited the "Oishi chaya".
