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Nikkō san'nai, Remnants of the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism~Part 1 The way to Nikkō and Rin'nōji

Article writtenNov.26th, 2020
Jun.13th, 2020
Nikkō san'nai consists of 2 shrines and 1 temple, Futarasan shrine that has its origin in ancient mountain cult, Tōshōgū that was the sacred ground of the Tokugawa shogunate built with the best technologies of that time, and Rin'nōji that had maintained the light of Buddhism for 1200 years. The way to Nikkō and a visit to Rin'nōji.
Recommend viewing in landscape mode.
Recommend viewing in landscape mode.
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Nikkō san'nai consists of 2 shrines and 1 temple, Futarasan shrine that has its origin in ancient mountain cult, Tōshōgū that was the sacred ground of the Tokugawa shogunate built with the best technologies of that time, and Rin'nōji that had maintained the light of Buddhism for 1200 years. It was listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1999, as "Shrines and Temples of Nikko". These 2 shrines and 1 temple were originally served as one religious institution, "Nikkō-san", and a syncretic worship was practiced since establishment, until the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji era.

Visiting Nikkō san'nai, where Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples still exists together, as they were in the age of the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.

Rin'nōji is a generic name of the many temple buildings scattered around Nikkō, such as Sanbutsudō, Taiyūin, Jingendō, Jōgyōdō, Ōgomadō, Chūzenji and Shihonryūji, and is one of the major temples of Tendai-shū. The Sanbutsudō, which is the main hall of Rin'nōji, houses three Buddhist statues, the Senju-kannon, the Amida-nyorai and the Batō-kannon. These are considered as Buddhist manifestations of Nikkō-sansho-gongen, the three mountain gods. The gold-leafed statues are over 7.5m tall, and are one of the largest Buddhist statues in Japan.

01

【About】About 3 hours from Tōkyō, arrived at Tobu-nikko station.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

02

【About】This visit is by a local train. Limited express trains takes about 2 hours.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

03

【About】Inside the station building of Tobu-nikko station.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

04

【About】Tobu-nikko station has a triangular roof as it is in a mountain hut in the Alps.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

05

【About】The monument of the "World Heritage" in front of the station.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

06

【About】A view of the station. The station building was rebuilt in 1979.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

07

【About】Bus is available from the station to Nikkō san'nai, but going to walk.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

08

【About】The street from the station, National Route 119, used to be a part of Nikkō Kaidō, a route built by the Tokugawa Shogunate to connect Edo and Nikkō. Some souvenir shops and restaurants are along the street.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

09

【About】A tramway used to operate on this street, connecting to a funicular and gondola to Akechidaira. However it was closed in 1968.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

10

【About】Some shops along the street have long histories, established in the Edo period.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

11

【About】The white building on the hill is Nikkō city hall Nikkō branch. It originally was built as "Daimyō hotel" in 1919. It took 15 years to build, but it never was used as a hotel, and had been used as a government office since 1954.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

12

【About】Going up the slope. Getting close to Nikkō san'nai.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

13

【About】An old building coming in sight. It is Nikkō Bussan Shōkai.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

14

【About】Nikkō Bussan Shōkai originally was a souvenir shop of Nikkō Kanaya Hotel. Nikkō Kanaya Hotel is on the hill behind the shop.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

15

【About】The building was built in 1905, and is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

16

【About】The fountain accross the street from Nikkō Bussan Shōkai is Iwasaku Reisui.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

17

【About】It is said that Shōdō Shōnin, the founder of Nikkō-san, found this springing water, and since then, worshippers dedicated this miraculous water to the gods.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

18

【About】Next to the Nikkō Bussan Shōkai is the Shinkyō. It is the first noted place, and also the entrance of Nikkō san'nai. The Shinkyō is a part of Futarasan shrine, and is listed as a World Heritage Site.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

19

【About】In 766, when Shōdō Shōnin and his party reached the riverbank of Daiya river, they weren't able to cross the rapid stream. It is said that, when Shōdō Shōnin asked the gods for help, Jinja-daiō appeared and released two snakes, and the snakes laid across the river and formed a bridge. The vermillion bridge, like it is now, was first built in 1636, and the bridge that exists now was built in 1904, after it floods washed away the bridge in 1902.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

20

【About】The river under the bridge is Daiya river. A very clear stream.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

21

【About】The Shinkyō, after it was rebuilt in 1636, it was seen as a sacred bridge, and had only been used in special occasions such as in rituals or visits by shōguns and chokushis. So another bridge, the Nikkō bridge, was built for general public. The Nikkō bridge that exists now was rebuilt in 1962, due to the increase of motor traffic .
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

22

【About】The other side of the Nikkō bridge is Nikkō san'nai, the World Heritage Site "Shrines and Temples of Nikkō".
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

23

【About】A memorial of the World Heritage Site.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

24

【About】The stairs continues on into the forest.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

25

【About】The stairs lead to Nikkō san'nai too, but trying another stairs on the left.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

26

【About】Looking back.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

27

【About】The Shinkyō seen below. The Shinkyō is open to the public at a fee. However, you cannot cross all the way to this side.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

28

【About】The path leads to Jinjaōdō.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

29

【About】The Jinjaōdō enshrines Jinjadaiō in the legend of the Shinkyō, as Jaō-gongen.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

30

【About】Looking back at the path.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

31

【About】Soon after the Jinjaōdō, there is a slope called Nagasaka.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

32

【About】This path was also a part of Nikkō Kaidō. It is the main path to Nikkō-san.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

33

【About】Continuing on through the forest of cedar.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

34

【About】The slope continues after the corner.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

35

【About】It is a great forest of cedar.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

36

【About】The fresh green of the leaves are beautiful.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

37

【About】After the second corner, almost at the top of the slope.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

38

【About】There is a small water fall by the slope called Nagasaka fall.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

39

【About】The small stream beside the path becomes a water fall.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

40

【About】Looking back at the slope.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

41

【About】At the top of the slope, is Rin'nōji. At the entrance, is a statue of Shōdō Shōnin, the founder of Nikkō-san.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

42

【About】Shōdō Shōnin was a Buddhist monk around the Nara period and Heian period. He followed an oracle he had when he was young, saying to learn Buddhism and establish Nikkō-san. This statue was built in 1955 as a memorial of the 1200th anniversary of establishment.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

43

【About】The water-basin in front of the statue. It was a votive offering, in 1897.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

44

【About】Going in to the Temple.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

45

【About】The Sanbutsudō, which is the main hall of Rin'nōji. Repair works had been carried out since 2007, and is enclosed in scaffolds.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

46

【About】The Sanbutsudō from the front. On the right is a 500 year old cherry blossom tree called Kongō-zakura. The Sanbutsudō that exists now was built in 1645 by Tokugawa Iemitsu, after it collapsed by heavy snow. It originally was where the shrine office of Futarasan shrine is now, but was relocated due to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji era.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

47

【About】There is a ticketing office on the left of the Sanbutsudō. The ticket that includes admission to the Taiyūin is convenient.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

48

【About】Going in to the Sanbutsudō.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

49

【About】The Goshuin of Sanbutsudō. It is available inside the Sanbutsudō.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

50

【About】Exiting to the other side of the Sanbutsudō. No photography is allowed inside, but it houses gold-leafed statues, over 7.5m tall, of the Senju-kannon, the Amida-nyorai and the Batō-kannon, those are Buddhist manifestations of Nikkō-sanshogongen, the three mountain gods.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

51

【About】Behind the Sanbutsudō is the Ōgomadō. It houses 30 Buddhist statues including the principal object, Godaimyō'ō. Prayers are offered and holy fires are lighted.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

52

【About】Goshuin is available at the Ōgomadō too.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

53

【About】After passing the Ōgomadō, is a wide path. The left side.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

54

【About】And the right side.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

55

【About】The path leads to the Tōshōgū.
【Date】Jun.13th, 2018 【Location】Nikkō,Tochigi

Continuing on for Tōshōgū.

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